Summary

Spain has the largest area under vine of any country in the world, with around a third of vines planted prior to 1990, and centuries-old vines still producing fruit in many regions. But the last 30 years have seen many heritage vineyards grubbed up and replanted with higher yielding clones in areas that are easier to mechanize. This is added to the ongoing issue of rural depopulation, with elderly vine growers often retiring leaving no one to take care of their vines. 

Many commercial initiatives have sprung up in recent years, with young winemakers buying up historic plots, and cooperatives starting to pay more for older vine fruit. But in European countries, regulatory bodies play a crucial role in controlling the use of labelling terms such as "Old Vines", and highlighting the value of their vineyards through new categories. 

The Old Vine Conference's Regional Ambassador for Spain, Anna Harris-Noble, will take a look at some of the key developments across some of Spain's leading Designations of Origins, such as Rioja, Priorat, Bierzo, Jumilla and Campo de Borja: and their latest initiatives aimed at ensuring heritage vineyards have a sustainable future.

About the Speaker

Anna has been working in the wine industry in Spain and the UK for almost 20 years, including a period heading up the UK Wines from Rioja account. She has carried out translation and marketing projects for some of Spain’s most important wine companies. A fluent Spanish speaker and WSET-certified educator, she translated Fernando Mora’s Master of Wine research paper about vineyard classification systems in the DO Campo de Borja into English and had her article about the winemaker's work recovering an ancient vineyard published on jancisrobinson.com

She now handles the UK PR for Entrecanales Domecq e Hijos, which owns a 100 year-old Single Vineyard in Rioja Alavesa, and writes for spanishwinelover.com and foodswinesfromspain.com 

Born in the UK, Anna thought her love for Spanish wine stemmed from her time living next to a winery in Navarra as part of her languages degree, but she has discovered ancestral links to vineyards in the Toledo area stretching back over 500 years.

“I’ve taken on the role, as during my time visiting Spain’s dramatically beautiful mountain vineyards, I’ve heard many tales of ancient vines being abandoned or grubbed up as they are no longer considered viable. Home to some of the world’s oldest vineyards – such as Pago Macharnudo in Jerez, which is thought to have been cultivated for over 3,000 years – I want to tell the stories behind Spain’s old vine heritage to ensure that it is valued and preserved for future generations.”

Timestamp

Introduction to the Webinar (00:00)

Justin welcomes Anna Harris-Noble and introduces her background in the wine industry.

Overview of the Old Vine Conference (00:02)

Anna explains the purpose and goals of the Old Vine Conference and its significance for old vine wines.

Importance of Old Vines (00:05)

Discussion on the scientific benefits of old vines, including biodiversity and grape quality.

Challenges in Spain's Vineyards (00:07)

Overview of rural depopulation and its impact on the maintenance of old vineyards in Spain.

Statistics on Vineyard Loss (00:09)

Presentation of data showing significant vineyard loss in Spain and its implications for sustainability.

Protests by Farmers (00:10)

Discussion of recent protests by farmers concerning grape prices and market dynamics.

Changing Wine Classification Systems (00:12)

Exploration of new classification systems in Spain aimed at enhancing wine quality and heritage.

Restoration of Old Vine Varieties (00:13)

Highlighting efforts to restore old grape varieties and their significance in modern winemaking.

Old Vines and Biodiversity (00:16)

Discussion on the biodiversity benefits of old vines and the unique wines they produce.

Spanish Members of the Old Vine Conference (00:17)

Introduction of various Spanish wineries involved in the Old Vine Conference and their contributions.

Legislative Impact on Old Vines (00:20)

Examination of whether legislation is necessary given the positive initiatives already in place.

Comparison of Vineyards in Spain and South Africa (00:24)

Analysis of the differences in vineyard management and regulations between Spain and South Africa.

Introduction to Old Vines and Legislation (00:25)

Anna discusses the diversity of old vine environments and the complexity of wine legislation in Spain.

EU and Spanish Wine Law (00:27)

Overview of how EU legislation influences Spanish wine law and the local regulations that apply.

Old Vine Garnacha Labels (00:28)

Explanation of labelling rules for wines claiming to be made from old vines, specifically Garnacha.

Quality and Pricing of Old Vines (00:31)

Discussion on how the term "old vines" can justify higher prices for grapes and wines.

Variability in Old Vine Classification (00:32)

Anna highlights the differences in classifications for old vines across various Denominaciones de Origen (DOs).

Specific Regulations in Ribera del Duero (00:33)

Details on labeling requirements for wine producers regarding vineyard age in Ribera del Duero.

Rioja's Definition of Old Vines (00:35)

Rioja's recent changes to define old vines as those planted before 1980, affecting labeling practices.

Bierzo and Old Vines (00:36)

Discussion on regions like Bierzo that have many old vines but lack specific aging regulations.

Certification Challenges in Spain (00:38)

Anna addresses the issues surrounding the certification of old vines and ongoing research efforts.

Traditional Practices and Aging Wines (00:41)

Exploration of how older vineyards are often used for producing wines intended for aging.

Changes in Rioja's Labeling Rules (00:43)

Updates on labeling rules in Rioja, allowing for more accurate representation of vineyard origins.

Historical Context for Vineyard Age Certification (00:46)

Anna explains the significance of historical aerial surveys in determining vineyard ages in Spain.

Campo de Borja's Research Initiatives (00:48)

Overview of Campo de Borja's projects aimed at preserving old vines and understanding their aging capacity.

Jumilla's Unique Old Vine Practices (00:50)

Discussion on Jumilla's un-grafted old vines and the unique conditions that allow their survival.

Conclusion on Old Vine Preservation (00:52)

Anna wraps up with a call to action for continued efforts in preserving Spain's old vine heritage.

Q&A (00:52)