Domaine Georges Vernay

If there’s one name that’s more closely associated with Condrieu than any other, it has to be Georges Vernay. He took over the domaine from his father François Vernay in 1953, when the Condrieu vineyard had dwindled to just 7ha following the Second World War. He rallied his winegrowing neighbours to keep the appellation alive – and, thanks to him, Viognier now thrives not just here but all over the world.

He handed the estate over to his daughter Christine in 1996, who until that point had been a teacher. She has a calm, thoughtful presence and works meticulously in both vineyard and cellar – and now she is gradually sharing her secrets with her daughter Emma.

This is one of the rare estates in Condrieu that is certified organic. It’s hard to find people willing to weed these slopes by hand. But Christine has proved that it’s possible.

All three Condrieu cuvées are excellent: Les Terrasses de l’Empire is a blend of many small parcels; Les Chaillées d’Enfer is made of two 50-year-old south-facing parcels on biotite granite in a more imposing, assertive style; their top cuvée, Coteau de Vernon, is a single-vineyard wine from the best lieu-dit in Condrieu which has dazzling intensity and salinity.

They might be famous for whites, but don’t ignore their reds – their Côte-Rôties in particular have exquisite finesse and balance, but their Saint-Josephs and even their IGP Syrahs are impressively refined.