Domaine Gourt de Mautens

To describe Jérôme Bressy of Domaine Gourt de Mautens as a maverick is no exaggeration. When he took over the family vines in 1996, he promptly converted it to biodynamics and, instead of taking the crop to the local co-op, he started bottling it himself.

In 2010, when AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rasteau was promoted to AOC Rasteau, the INAO tightened the rules of production pertaining to grape varieties, and reduced the amount of ‘accessory’ local grapes allowed, such as Vaccarèse and Piquepoul Noir. Rather than changing his blend, Bressy dropped out of the appellation, labelling his wines as IGP Vaucluse ever since. And thus, the Rasteau appellation lost its star estate.

He has made various cuvées over the years, but now makes just one red and one white. (It’s a shame – his rosé was the finest pink wine I’ve ever tasted.) As the climate becomes more extreme, so do his creations. They are wines of great intensity, might and assertiveness that are unquestionably among the greatest wines of the Rhône Valley.